Chenega Bay and Prince William Sound

We'll gang, we've met some interesting people on our trips and this one wascertainly no exception. We've talked about the international travelers and the crusty old-timers but some of the most fascinating stories come from the young folks we met. One couple really exemplified the spirit of this place. Originally from North Carolina and Utah respectively a young man who is a

Mental Health worker and his girlfriend who is a Registered Nurse had both come to Alaska to earn money for college never expecting to remain. After graduation back in the lower 48 they both decided to return for a final visit before embarking on their respective careers. They quickly decided to


postpone their departure when thy found jobs in their respective fields in Anchorage. Now, it appears that they have become members of the newest generation of Alaskans. Since he earned college money as a "Sea Kayak adventure guide" they had decided to kick off their new life with a ten-day sea kayak tour of Prince William Sound. Wow! And - getting to know them led us
to meet another petite, attractive young "surfer" lady from California. She had gotten a call from a friend in Kodiak who said, "surf's up dude!" What can you say? She dropped everything, packed a bag and headed for Alaska. Upon arrival by plane in Anchorage she found that flights to Kodiak would be delayed by fog. No problem - she simply hitched a ride to Whittier, boarded the ferry and - here she was. Ya can't miss a chance for the big surf, dude!   Very interesting people. But I have to tell you, seeing places like Prince William Sound - or even the terrain in the landward portions of the 6,908,540 acre Chugach National Forest which surrounds the sound - I would be out there with those intrepid kids in a heartbeat if I could. This is a stupendously glorious world and those who cannot - or won't - respect, love and honor it are profoundly foolish. We cruised by countless ice fields, waterfalls, meadows bursting with new spring life and .. Glaciers!! One very cool (pun intended) one was the mighty Chilikof Glacier - 22 miles long and growing! I was really excited about this chance to visit the fabled Prince William Sound and Chenega Bay. I had been baffled when trying to do some research on the village because it did not seem to be where it was supposed to be.
As we neared the village site I learned why. Originally settled in the early 1700s at the South end of Chenega Island in Prince William Sound, the village of Chenega Bay was wiped out on May 27, 1964 during a 9.9 earthquake and nearly 75% of the villagers killed. The tiny group of survivors, led by Fr. Steve Vlasoff, valiantly struggled to re-establish their village and after an exhaustive
search to find an environment comparable to their old home, they selected a spot on Evans Island in Crab Bay in 1977.  But the bureaucratic struggle continued and it was not until 1984 that Fr. Vlasoff and his flock finally came home to their village. Unfortunately, twenty-five years to the day after the devastating earthquake another disaster - in many ways just as terrible - confronted the people of Chenega Bay and Prince William Sound; the horrible Exxon Valdez oil spill.


The ecological devastation caused by the spill will likely never be fully understood but for people who depended on these waters for their very existence it was a catastrophe of the highest order. I urge you to take time to find out more about Fr. Vlasoff. He is one of those rare people whose impact on the world, on his Alutiiq brothers and sisters he loved so much and on the new village of Chenega Bay is so vast as to seem impossible. As we approached the dock we could see that Fr. Steve and his colleagues had chosen wisely.
While the dock and surrounding loading area were excellently suited to the tides and the needs of visiting vessels, the village sits high atop a beautiful hill, safe from the malevolent tsunami. We trudged up the hill on a smooth, but unpaved, road and marveled at the reminders of the community's past.  Rounding the final curve, the ultimate monument to Fr. Steve came into view St michael's Orthodox Church.


Newly renovated from the ground up, the building is beautiful inside and out and we were blown away by the exquisite and intricate icons, carvings, tapestries and glassware.  But most remarkable was the palpable presence here of the spirits of Fr. Steve and his beautiful Alutiiq brothers and sisters who built the legacy that is so vibrantly alive today.  We strolled back to the ship taking time along the way to savor the beauty of this place and to offer our prayers for those lost in the tsunami and for the remarkable Fr. Steve Vlasoff.   But we would now be starting the final leg of our trip to Kodiak and our thoughts began to turn to our family there.  Almost as if saying "you guys need to take a break", the skies - which had been beautiful the entire time - began to close down as an enormous fog bank engulfed the MV Kennicott. So we cruised along through the ethereal mist and reflected on another fantastic day traveling on the AMHS. Reveille will be at 5:00 am again tomorrow so get some sleep so you'll be ready. See ya.


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Whittier - Unique Gateways In And Out

In planning our route for this trip I had hoped we would be able to use Whittier as our AMHS embarkation point. That was when I learned the complexities of transportation when you have to go through a tunnel shared by cars and trains and a train schedule that changes with the seasons. Hmmmm ..


When you have to match that with ferry schedules that are complicated and air travel that takes some juggling ... well, you get the idea. So - that caused us to miss traveling through the doorway to Whittier - the 13,300 foot Anton Anderson Tunnel. But - that meant we would experience the "other door" the Passage Canal, gateway to Prince William Sound.



We can verify the magnificence of that entry point and gliding through those pristine waters and spectacular scenery was awesome. The Port of Whittier has an amazing history, beginning during World War II with the construction of extensive military facilities.


Over time the population has risen to several thousand only to decline to it's present level of less than three hundred - but with an annual visiting population of over 700,000.


So, we were really looking forward to spending a little time ashore and prepared to "hit the deck" early for our excursion. We had also hoped to say goodby to some of the folks we had met but they were a bit earlier than we were. Although we missed seeing the Whittier (A. Anderson) Tunnel we got to see the 'mini-version' as we exited the ship and went through a 500-600 foot pedestrian underpass tunnel beneath the rail lines.



There were tons of fishing and recreational boats tied up in the town marina and more stored ashore. There was also a large quantity of small shops - most of which were busily getting ready for the summer season.





At the Anchor Hotel there is also a museum which documents and chronicles the 65 year history of the town and the countless eons of Alaskan history. We enjoyed walking around and chatting with some of the local folks and then we realized that this was a rare opportunity to try 'Geocaching.'





We quickly discovered two caches within easy walking distance and soon had our first Alaska "finds". We left a "Geobuck" (see the note in the right margin) and made log entries in both. It was a really nice 'shore visit' but like true 'wanderers' we started getting a little itchy to see what was at the end of the next inlet so we said goodbye to Mayor Blair and headed back aboard to 'shove off'.





Our next stop was one we were really excited about - Chenega Bay! It lies in the middle of the area heavily damaged by the tsunami during the 1964 earthquake and one of the hardest hit by the Exxon Valdez oil spill. We wanted to see, first-hand, how the recovery has progressed. With new travelers joining us for this leg we got underway promptly and headed into the sound. We've got lots to see so, rest your eyes and come on back. See



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Location:Cliffside Rd,Kodiak,United States

The Place Where Canoes Rest

For those of you who traveled with us through the Yukon, you will remember our visit to the tiny but enchanting village of Teslin. If so, You might recall that was the home of the Tlingit Cultural Center - an amazing international 'heritage' site for the venerable Tlingit (remember, it's pronounced "Klink-et") tribe. Well, today we visited another Tlingit location, Yakutat (Yaakwdáat in local spelling) means "the place where canoes rest".






Lying 212 miles NW of Juneau, with a population of only 662, the borough covers an area about six times the size of Rhode Island, making in one of the largest “counties” in the U.S. It is located along the Alaskan Gulf Coast between Sitka and Cordova with the Gulf of Alaska on the South, nearly impenetrable mountains to the North, and coastal glaciers to the East and West, and it is about as remote as one can get in Alaska. There are no roads leading into or out and all commerce and access occurs via air or sea. Yakutaat is surrounded by Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Tongass National Forest.











It is also the home to a vibrant, bustling fish-processing industry and the folks who are frequent ferry passengers know to hurry ashore during the brief stop to pick up some fresh Halibut or Cod. The waters surrounding Yakutat are simply indescribable - but let me tell you - as you leave, you encounter a sight that literally takes your breath away; Mount St. Elias, second tallest mountain in the U.S.





Rising from the mist like some mystical island from. "Gulliver's Travels" or "Star Wars". It is one of the strangest, most moving sights I have ever seen. Awesome!! Named by explorer Vitus Bering for the Danish holiday on which he first saw it, Mt. St. Elias sits at the head of the largest piedmont glacier in North America, Malaspina Glacier. As we turned further northward toward our next stop, Whittier, we were again treated to an absolutely spectacular "chamber of commerce" sunset.






Key West, eat your heart out!!! But, it's getting late so we'd better let you get rested up for our early morning excursion to Whittier. Get back here by 6:00 am, OK? See Ya.



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Inside Passage - Juneau To Yakutat

Boarding the Alaska Marine Highway System ferry MV Kennicot in Juneau was


like "coming home" in a way. Of course we have bragged so much on the AMHS that it is easy to tell how prejudiced we are. Even the decorations on the ship reflect the shared pride the people have for their multifaceted heritage. They celebrate the a accomplishments of their ancestors, their neighbors and their school children. It is a fabulous system and we do love it - but the 'homecoming' part comes from the people. The staff











and crews of the vessels are just great and they treat you like family but the real treat comes as you get to know your fellow travelers. It is simply incredible how many spellbinding stories they have and how truly unique they are.


We have met fiery "off the grid" folks living in tiny clusters of families within a relatively short walk of the Article Circle, people with devastating illnesses who refuse to succumb to self pity and defiantly chase every second of life they can reach; young single parents - with children in tow (men and women) -determined to carve out a life of freedom and peace for their kids; retirees from just about everywhere - Australia, New Zealand, Scotland, South Africa, India, and on and on. And - each and every one of them - including those who have made Alaska their home - has an incredible sense of appreciation for the glorious gallery of beauty we are traveling through together.





We laugh, share stories, sometimes cry together but through it all runs a spirit of independence, toughness and compassion that restores your faith in the potential of mankind.


But the trip!! How can you not feel humble when you are traveling through this wonderland.






I mean - even the captain of the ship gets into the journey - excitedly announcing wildlife sightings and beautiful natural formations along the shore from the bridge. And at sunset (late though it might be) folks crowd the rails to get a good look at the retreating day. It is a scene reminiscent of the 'sunset celebration' in Key West we talked about a while back. And as the day draws to a close we prepare for our early morning visit to the tiny village of Yakutat.




We'll be back to share some of the sights from there - so rest up. See ya then!


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We're Here!!!

After some very "last minute" shopping we returned our reliable chariot to the


fantastic folks at Juneau Car Rental - including our new best friends Shannon, Samantha and Carmen. Carmen is a beautiful young lady who, at age 38, has faced and conquered more demons than most of us could imagine confronting


in a lifetime three times that long. I won't try to recap all the details here but let me just say that they include drugs, alcohol, alcoholic destruction of both hips, failure, despair and the love of a mother, an AA sponsor and a special friend who simply would not give up on her. From successful withdrawal, to relapse,


to eventual recovery again she has slowly begun to accept her own self-worth and with the support of folks who love her and a running program that now has her running four miles a day, four days a week this courageous young lady has


accepted her challenges and molded them into strengths. She readily agreed for us to share her experiences and will be praying for her continued success. As he dropped us off at the AMHS Terminal we shared a round of hugs to cement


our new friendship and walked into the terminal to embark on yet another fantastic adventure. I won't spend too much time talking about it - but - I wanted you to see some of the sights that surrounded us as we made our way


aboard the ship. They speak for themselves but I can't avoid a few modest adjectives: awesomely, spectacularly amazing!! Get back here quickly so you don't miss the boat. AMHS is punctual! See Ya!


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Winging Our Way Westward

We made it to Charlotte Sunday after a great morning at St. Michaels'. It was "Youth Sunday" and one of "our kids" gave the sermon. On Saturday we had the pleasure and honor of attending the same young man's Eagle Scout Court of Honor. What a treat! Others of ours sang, read lessons and generally discredited those folks who don't think there are still some spectacular kids out there in the world. They were bright, competent and engaging as they renewed our hope for the future. But we were anxious to get going so we finished up our prep work in Ridgeway and struck out for Charlotte to pick Rick up. Even though we knew it was going to be a very early morning, we were looking forward to getting that first leg of the journey behind us. - Well!! That didn't go exactly as planned. We arrived at the Charlotte airport before dawn even thought about cracking (4:15 am) and set about checking in. It was then that we learned United had cancelled the first leg of our flight, thus totally screwing up all of the other critical elements in the domino sequence. Generally we're relatively flexible with unexpected changes but, in this case, a bunch of other things were dependent on us making it to each place on time. So - instead of cruising right on up to the Pacific Northwest, we wound up taking a tour of the Southwest. Phoenix!!!!! With the change in direction our carefully arranged seating plans were scrambled and we wound up pretty widely separated. That' s not usually a problem but we had a bit of turbulence and I would have preferred that we be closer so we could complain in "group-mode". After a short stay in Phoenix working on getting things back on track we made our way to Seattle and on to Juneau.

Most airports these days try to promote local art and artists and Seattle is no exception. So - we were entertained during our layover. Finally - Alaska!!!  The rugged terrain surrounding the capital city was impressive with the Juneau Ice Field very prominent. The airport, though small, is a classy welcoming spot and you know you're somewhere special when you walk out the door. Now - to see if the magic continues and the Juneau Car Rental folks did, indeed, leave our trusty steed at the hotel!  We'll head over there and report back to you when we get a chance.  Now, it's time to rest up for tomorrow's big adventure. You folks get some rest too. See ya.







 


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North To Alaska!!!

The City of Juneau

OK Gang - we're getting ready to be ... (as Willie says...)  on the road again.  We'll be leaving the Queen City (Charlotte) at "Oh-Dark-Thirty" on Monday morning and heading for the magnificent Pacific Northwest.  Our first stop will be Alaska's capital city of Juneau.  Although we actually stopped there once on a previouis ferry trip we have never had the opportunity to actually visit the city 'for real.'  We won't be there long but we are hopeful that we'll get to see some things we've read and thought about for a long time.  One of them is the spectacular Mendenhal Glacier.  It is an awesome sight and we have seen it from the water as we traveled up the Inside Passage a while back.  We posted some pictures of it then but we'll try to do a better job this time.   Juneau also lies just across the Gastineau Channel from Douglas Island to which the city is connected by a huge bridge.  The first bridge was built in 1935 but was replaced by the current version in 1990.  Having never been there we aren't too sure what to expect but - we plan to look around as much as we can in the short time we'll be there.  We'll have a car thanks to Juneau Rentals so we'll pack in as much as we can.  For now, though, we have to finish getting ready, feeding half the animals in the northern hemisphere, finishing our discussions with the house sitter and packing things up for the first leg of the journey.  We're looking forward to being back on the road but I've gotta tell you, we're kinda wistful because our super companion, the other member of SCTravelersX3 will not be joining us.  We will have our son, Rick, with us - so hopefully he can share some thoughts along the way.  Anyway - ya'll get packed up.  We'll be pulling out shortly.  See ya.