Friday, May 16, 2014

The Place Where Canoes Rest

For those of you who traveled with us through the Yukon, you will remember our visit to the tiny but enchanting village of Teslin. If so, You might recall that was the home of the Tlingit Cultural Center - an amazing international 'heritage' site for the venerable Tlingit (remember, it's pronounced "Klink-et") tribe. Well, today we visited another Tlingit location, Yakutat (Yaakwdáat in local spelling) means "the place where canoes rest".






Lying 212 miles NW of Juneau, with a population of only 662, the borough covers an area about six times the size of Rhode Island, making in one of the largest “counties” in the U.S. It is located along the Alaskan Gulf Coast between Sitka and Cordova with the Gulf of Alaska on the South, nearly impenetrable mountains to the North, and coastal glaciers to the East and West, and it is about as remote as one can get in Alaska. There are no roads leading into or out and all commerce and access occurs via air or sea. Yakutaat is surrounded by Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Tongass National Forest.











It is also the home to a vibrant, bustling fish-processing industry and the folks who are frequent ferry passengers know to hurry ashore during the brief stop to pick up some fresh Halibut or Cod. The waters surrounding Yakutat are simply indescribable - but let me tell you - as you leave, you encounter a sight that literally takes your breath away; Mount St. Elias, second tallest mountain in the U.S.





Rising from the mist like some mystical island from. "Gulliver's Travels" or "Star Wars". It is one of the strangest, most moving sights I have ever seen. Awesome!! Named by explorer Vitus Bering for the Danish holiday on which he first saw it, Mt. St. Elias sits at the head of the largest piedmont glacier in North America, Malaspina Glacier. As we turned further northward toward our next stop, Whittier, we were again treated to an absolutely spectacular "chamber of commerce" sunset.






Key West, eat your heart out!!! But, it's getting late so we'd better let you get rested up for our early morning excursion to Whittier. Get back here by 6:00 am, OK? See Ya.



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Inside Passage - Juneau To Yakutat

Boarding the Alaska Marine Highway System ferry MV Kennicot in Juneau was


like "coming home" in a way. Of course we have bragged so much on the AMHS that it is easy to tell how prejudiced we are. Even the decorations on the ship reflect the shared pride the people have for their multifaceted heritage. They celebrate the a accomplishments of their ancestors, their neighbors and their school children. It is a fabulous system and we do love it - but the 'homecoming' part comes from the people. The staff











and crews of the vessels are just great and they treat you like family but the real treat comes as you get to know your fellow travelers. It is simply incredible how many spellbinding stories they have and how truly unique they are.


We have met fiery "off the grid" folks living in tiny clusters of families within a relatively short walk of the Article Circle, people with devastating illnesses who refuse to succumb to self pity and defiantly chase every second of life they can reach; young single parents - with children in tow (men and women) -determined to carve out a life of freedom and peace for their kids; retirees from just about everywhere - Australia, New Zealand, Scotland, South Africa, India, and on and on. And - each and every one of them - including those who have made Alaska their home - has an incredible sense of appreciation for the glorious gallery of beauty we are traveling through together.





We laugh, share stories, sometimes cry together but through it all runs a spirit of independence, toughness and compassion that restores your faith in the potential of mankind.


But the trip!! How can you not feel humble when you are traveling through this wonderland.






I mean - even the captain of the ship gets into the journey - excitedly announcing wildlife sightings and beautiful natural formations along the shore from the bridge. And at sunset (late though it might be) folks crowd the rails to get a good look at the retreating day. It is a scene reminiscent of the 'sunset celebration' in Key West we talked about a while back. And as the day draws to a close we prepare for our early morning visit to the tiny village of Yakutat.




We'll be back to share some of the sights from there - so rest up. See ya then!


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Thursday, May 15, 2014

We're Here!!!

After some very "last minute" shopping we returned our reliable chariot to the


fantastic folks at Juneau Car Rental - including our new best friends Shannon, Samantha and Carmen. Carmen is a beautiful young lady who, at age 38, has faced and conquered more demons than most of us could imagine confronting


in a lifetime three times that long. I won't try to recap all the details here but let me just say that they include drugs, alcohol, alcoholic destruction of both hips, failure, despair and the love of a mother, an AA sponsor and a special friend who simply would not give up on her. From successful withdrawal, to relapse,


to eventual recovery again she has slowly begun to accept her own self-worth and with the support of folks who love her and a running program that now has her running four miles a day, four days a week this courageous young lady has


accepted her challenges and molded them into strengths. She readily agreed for us to share her experiences and will be praying for her continued success. As he dropped us off at the AMHS Terminal we shared a round of hugs to cement


our new friendship and walked into the terminal to embark on yet another fantastic adventure. I won't spend too much time talking about it - but - I wanted you to see some of the sights that surrounded us as we made our way


aboard the ship. They speak for themselves but I can't avoid a few modest adjectives: awesomely, spectacularly amazing!! Get back here quickly so you don't miss the boat. AMHS is punctual! See Ya!


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Sunday, May 11, 2014

Winging Our Way Westward

We made it to Charlotte Sunday after a great morning at St. Michaels'. It was "Youth Sunday" and one of "our kids" gave the sermon. On Saturday we had the pleasure and honor of attending the same young man's Eagle Scout Court of Honor. What a treat! Others of ours sang, read lessons and generally discredited those folks who don't think there are still some spectacular kids out there in the world. They were bright, competent and engaging as they renewed our hope for the future. But we were anxious to get going so we finished up our prep work in Ridgeway and struck out for Charlotte to pick Rick up. Even though we knew it was going to be a very early morning, we were looking forward to getting that first leg of the journey behind us. - Well!! That didn't go exactly as planned. We arrived at the Charlotte airport before dawn even thought about cracking (4:15 am) and set about checking in. It was then that we learned United had cancelled the first leg of our flight, thus totally screwing up all of the other critical elements in the domino sequence. Generally we're relatively flexible with unexpected changes but, in this case, a bunch of other things were dependent on us making it to each place on time. So - instead of cruising right on up to the Pacific Northwest, we wound up taking a tour of the Southwest. Phoenix!!!!! With the change in direction our carefully arranged seating plans were scrambled and we wound up pretty widely separated. That' s not usually a problem but we had a bit of turbulence and I would have preferred that we be closer so we could complain in "group-mode". After a short stay in Phoenix working on getting things back on track we made our way to Seattle and on to Juneau.

Most airports these days try to promote local art and artists and Seattle is no exception. So - we were entertained during our layover. Finally - Alaska!!!  The rugged terrain surrounding the capital city was impressive with the Juneau Ice Field very prominent. The airport, though small, is a classy welcoming spot and you know you're somewhere special when you walk out the door. Now - to see if the magic continues and the Juneau Car Rental folks did, indeed, leave our trusty steed at the hotel!  We'll head over there and report back to you when we get a chance.  Now, it's time to rest up for tomorrow's big adventure. You folks get some rest too. See ya.







 


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North To Alaska!!!

The City of Juneau
OK Gang - we're getting ready to be ... (as Willie says...)  on the road again.  We'll be leaving the Queen City (Charlotte) at "Oh-Dark-Thirty" on Monday morning and heading for the magnificent Pacific Northwest.  Our first stop will be Alaska's capital city of Juneau.  Although we actually stopped there once on a previouis ferry trip we have never had the opportunity to actually visit the city 'for real.'  We won't be there long but we are hopeful that we'll get to see some things we've read and thought about for a long time.  One of them is the spectacular Mendenhal Glacier.  It is an awesome sight and we have seen it from the water as we traveled up the Inside Passage a while back.  We posted some pictures of it then but we'll try to do a better job this time.   Juneau also lies just across the Gastineau Channel from Douglas Island to which the city is connected by a huge bridge.  The first bridge was built in 1935 but was replaced by the current version in 1990.  Having never been there we aren't too sure what to expect but - we plan to look around as much as we can in the short time we'll be there.  We'll have a car thanks to Juneau Rentals so we'll pack in as much as we can.  For now, though, we have to finish getting ready, feeding half the animals in the northern hemisphere, finishing our discussions with the house sitter and packing things up for the first leg of the journey.  We're looking forward to being back on the road but I've gotta tell you, we're kinda wistful because our super companion, the other member of SCTravelersX3 will not be joining us.  We will have our son, Rick, with us - so hopefully he can share some thoughts along the way.  Anyway - ya'll get packed up.  We'll be pulling out shortly.  See ya.












Sunday, April 20, 2014

Happy Easter World!!!

What a wonderful day gang!!  We are absolutely engulfed in the wonder and glory of spring over here in our little  corner of the world.  For those not familiar with the manifestations of spring in beautiful South Carolina, it's like this - if you can survive "pollen season" without your sinuses exploding, you will be treated to the most magnificent display of color you could imagine thanks to Camelias, Azalias, Dogwood, Tulip Trees, Begonias, Pansies, Vinca, Salvia and about a zillion other gorgeous species I can't begin to name. One of our very favorites is this incredible display of lillies that appear in the woods below our house.   And this year, with some perfectly timed rainfall, we managed to escape the pervasive yellow pine pollen and so far the budding oaks have not been too bad.  It is a time when you can ride around beautiful suburban Ridgeway and see quite a floral display.  It is clearly a time of renewal and resurrection, re-birth and new beginnings.  For those of us who embrace Christianity it is a time of special significance - a time when we celebrate the fulfillment of a miraculous promise that gives us unending hope.  But, most of all, it is a time when we are reminded how important it is for us to recognize and appreciate the beauty of our brothers and sisters throughout the world and to celebrate with renewed vigor our quest for human understanding.  There are far too many places around our world where conflict, mistrust, hunger, thirst or poverty prevent us from seeing the wonder and beauty of the earth and that is exquisitely sad.  Hopefully we can all use this season of renewal as a time to re-double our efforts to work for peace.  For two of the SCTravelersX3, it is a very, very special Easter because all of this beauty came just in time for our fiftieth wedding anniversary!!!  Finally out of the "trial period!!"  And - to commemorate the event we will be taking a very special trip in just a few weeks.  I won't spoil the surprise but I will say that we really think you're going to enjoy it!  We'll be cranking up shortly but, for now, let me leave you with this 'mystery fact.'  Among other places, we'll be visiting a county (borough) that is six times as large as the state of Rhode Island making it one of the largest in the U.S. -but - with a population smaller than our beautiful little Ridgeway. Back soon with a lot more!  See ya.


Thursday, April 3, 2014

When We See A Feather....!!!


As we looked at the last post, gang, we got to thinking about our "feathered friends".  I mean, what is more exhilarating than to see a creature of exquisite beauty who is not only aesthetically attractive but whose grace and agility inspire instant envy.  And then we start thinking about other 'winged creatures' - those beings of mythology, legend and mystery - who, throughout the ages, have caused us to imagine incredible possibilities.  Have we seen an Angel? A Phoenix? A Dragon?  The mental possibilities are endless.  And all you have to do is do the most cursory review of ancient literature, folklore and history to see that throughout the continuum of time, feathered creatures have been considered as crucial elements in our existence.  The tales that have been woven to explain their roles are as charming, fascinating and intriguing as any aspect of human record-keeping.  Of course, one of the most prominent and frequently mentioned is our old friend the Raven.  Whether we refer to him as "Crow", Magpie, Raven, Blackbird or any of a number of other names, he is recognized in virtually every culture, continent and civilization throughout time.  For some he is the primary 'spirit messenger', for others, an omen of death.  In ancient Greece he was considered unlucky while in China he represented the three parts of the day.  In some cultures he represented fidelity; in others, the bringer of food.  Always described as 'cunning', in North American Native folklore he sees the past present and future simultaneously.  But there are so many others!!  Growing up in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains one of my childhood friends was the remarkable Blue Jay.  His place in Native American lore is firmly fixed - but - not always his role.  Many tribes have negative views about bluejays because of their noisy, aggressive behavior. In legends, they are often nosy gossips, bullies, or selfish thieves. But, on occasion, they are seen as clever, entertaining, and helpful to humankind.  While it would be impossible to repeat the various legends here, if you have the opportunity, please find out more about the role of Blue Jays in the lives of the Hopi Indians or the legends of "The Bears, the Lizard and the Crow."  There are many others of equal fascination.  And then, there is his 'opposite number' on the color scale - the Cardinal.  This spectacular fellow has been the source of more creative storytelling than almost any other.  If you want to have a lot of fun learning about the thoughts of our early brothers and sisters please take the time to look up the Cherokee legend of the Racoon, the Wolf, and the drab brown bird who, through an act of extraordinary kindness not only earned the eternal gratitude of his powerful neighbor but gained perhaps the most dramatic coloration in the bird kingdom.  Of course, one of our all-time favorites has to be the 'harbinger of spring' our old buddy the Red Breasted Robin.  His place in folklore is also rather remarkable.  Not only does he appear in ancient Native American and Native Meso-American folklore, he is prominently represented in Christian folklore as well.  The well-known fable of his role in keeping the infant Jesus warm by fanning the dying fire in the stable tells of the lasting favor he gained from Mary but, ironically, it parallels similar descriptions in Native American religious life.  There is no question that he has been associated with fire - from the dawn of creation to the early centuries following the Ice Age on our continent.  But it is not always the flashy or spectacular specimens that are the focus of our storytelling.  There are countless examples - Mockingbird, Titmouse, Sparrows and many others who constantly serve as examples used by the Ancient Americans to establish their expectations.  But it is impossible to miss the enormous role of those other representatives we hear so much about.  The mighty Eagle, the flashing Hawk, the intelligent Owl and so many more.  There are so many stories about their roles in the evolution of our planet and the development of our own species that we almost take them for granted at times.  The "totem" value of the extraordinary creatures has been firmly established in virtually every civilized (or not-so-civilized) culture which has been exposed to them.  We view them as big brothers and sisters, wise 'elder uncles', parents or grandparents or, perhaps, simply the thoughtful elders of our clan.  We have used them as examples of courage, power, cunning, and craftiness and we have sought to emulate their virtues.  Their very feathers and bones have played a medicinal role throughout history and their value to some aspects of our indigenous cultures is so great they are not only protected from harm or capture by man-made laws, the possession of their body parts is even illegal.  While it might seem a bit strange to some, those of you have traveled to the distant corners of our land - the Navajo, Apache, Anasazi, Comanche and Cherokee territories, the Tlingit and Athabascan lodges - with us and have seen the majesty of the Mesa Verde societies, the Nenana, Teslin and Cortez Cultural Centers; who have seen the dances of the feathered dieties inTillicum Villiage, Cortez, White Horse and Teslin ... you understand!!!  We are simply, inescapably linked with these magnificent creatures and it is a good - no, it is a wonderful thing!!  They are so beautiful, so awe-inspiring and so mysterious.  But, in closing, we cannot forget the little ladies and gentlemen that have brought us endless delight over the last decade or so - The Hummers!   These exquisite little jewels not only display their beauty, their feisty nature and their insatiable appetites throughout the summer, they have served as the inspiration for countless legends, myths and mysteries.  The lore of cultures throughout the Western Hemisphere abound with their stories.  (Note - you won't normally find them in European lore since they reside almost exclusively in the Western Hemisphere.)  The stories are almost endless so I won't try to summarize them here.  But - there is a more contemporary description that serves quite well.  I do not know how to properly attribute this note and I apologize for that but I will emphatically say - it's not mine!!  I hope, however, that you get as much enjoyment from this description of our beautiful little friend as I do.  It says: 


“Legends say that hummingbirds float free of time, carrying our hopes for love, joy and celebration. Hummingbirds open our eyes to the wonder of the world and inspire us to open our hearts to loved ones and friends. Like a hummingbird, we aspire to hover and to savor each moment as it passes, embrace all that life has to offer and to celebrate the joy of everyday. The hummingbird’s delicate grace reminds us that life is rich, beauty is everywhere, every personal connection has meaning and that laughter is life’s sweetest creation.”

We'll be back soon!!  See ya.