Friday, April 20, 2012

City Views - Charleston

If you've ever been to Washington, DC and walked around the downtown area you have most likely had the experience of encountering hidden treasures in the most unlikely places at unexpected times.  Little fountains, gardens, statues, pathways and patios pop up in the most unusual places.  Well - that's exactly the kind of experiences you will have walking around downtown Charleston.  It is like being on a 'grown-up' Easter Egg Hunt!!!  A number of parks - large and small - dot the landscape and they are spectacularly wonderful places to enjoy a cool spring morning - or - to escape Charleston's blistering heat during  the summer months. But it is not just the parks, homes and churches that get special attention here; even public buildings are showcases. We certainly won't be able to visit all of them (or even very many)  given our short time here - but we'll try to give you an idea of what there is to see.  A good place to start is where famous Broad Street meets State Street at the intersection known as the "four corners of government".  In this spot, the courthouse (site of state government until the mid-1800s), City Hall, the Federal Building and Post Office and St. Michael's Episcopal Church represent - State Law, Municipal Law, Federal Law and Canon Law.  Just stop there for a moment and look around you .... you'll see numerous reminders of the explosion of change in society that was taking place when Charleston was born.  On the north side of the intersection you encounter the birthplace of one of our most mysterious and talked-about organizations, The Masons.  It was here in 1737, at Shepherd's Tavern that The Grand Lodge of Masons was formed.  Nearly seventy years later, at the same location, the Scottish Rite Order was added.  Whether you care anything about fraternal organizations such as this or not, you have to acknowledge the huge influence they have had on the people who formed our nation.  The Masons continue to play a key role in many aspects of our society and the Scottish Rites Order - with the creation of the Shriners' Hospital - has brought hope to many severely injured young people who would otherwise be unable to imagine a positive future.  I'm not a Mason and I don't want to sound like their publicist but I do appreciate people who unselfishly - and often anonymously - devote their lives to helping others.  Some of them are never known.  Some achieve fame or notoriety because of the circumstances in which they find themselves.  Rounding the corner beyond Charleston City Hall we spot a place where individuals in both categories may be found - Washington Park.  Most of us assume that any historical site named "Washington" refers to our first President.  This spot, however, is dedicated to the Washington Light Infantry and their loyal service to their state and their cause in the War Between The States.  Ironically, however, there are few other tributes to that terrible conflict.  I think it simply shows that the sponsors of the monument - as Charlestonians so often do - demonstrated their appreciation for devotion to duty, faithfulness to a strongly held belief and devotion to the land of your birth.

It is often difficult to learn the true facts about the early days of individuals who eventually became famous but who in their early days were not so well known.  Such is the case with our seventh President, Andrew Jackson.  But if learning about "Old Hickory" is hard, try learning about his mom, Elizabeth Hutchinson Jackson!!!  What we do know, however, is that she was about as tough as a colonial lady could be and suffered enormous personal tragedy in her short forty four years.  Arriving in the colonies several years before the battle for independence began, Elizabeth and her husband (Andrew Sr.) added three sons to the family between 1763 and 1767 with Andrew Jr. being born a month after the death of his father.  All three boys served in the revolutionary forces with only Andy
surviving the war.  Hugh, the eldest, died at the battle of Stono Ferry near Charleston in 1779.  Captured and imprisoned in Camden, S.C. Andrew and his brother Robert contracted smallpox and were released.  Robert lost his life to the disease but Andrew recovered enabling Elizabeth to travel to Charleston where she volunteered to nurse colonial soldiers suffering from cholera on a prison ship in Charleston Harbor.  She eventually contracted the disease and lost her life as a result of her valiant decision to help others.  She is remembered with a memorial in Charleston's 'Washington
Poet Laureate of Confederacy
Park'. We have seen monuments to soldiers, to mothers volunteering their service and their lives to care for those caught up in the horrible maul of war and now we take a look at very different kind of patriot - one whose contribution was made not through physical strength or stamina but through the creations of a fertile mind and a passionate love for his native state.  The picture above and to the left is of the memorial to Henry Timrod often referred to as the Poet Laureate of the Confederacy.  Although prevented by ill health from ongoing service in the military forces of the C.S.A., his poetry is given tributes for inspiring loyalty to the southern cause and credited with stimulating military enlistments.  His contributions to the poetic and literary life of the state were enormous - and - many students of his work describe eerie similarities between Timrod and Bob Dylan!!  (Whoa!!)  Tiny Washington Park contains a tremendous array of monuments to - and final resting places of - famed figures from the history of the state.  I regret we can't spend more time in this magic place but - if you're ever in Charleston on a warm summer day and you need a cool and refreshing place to take a break - head for Washington Park!!

Charleston City Hall Stairway
Walking through the park and heading back up Broad to the entrance to City Hall we arrive at another one of those portals into our time machine we talked about at Fort Moultrie.  Although it might seem kind of "ho-hum" to visit an active, modern city building, this one is different for sure.  Since we wanted to spend some time in the City Council Chamber we headed immediately to the
Charleston City Hall Chambers
second floor and were transported back in time the second we entered the room.  Folks, this place is absolutely breathtaking.  Suffering damage from hurricanes, earthquakes, fires and decay over the years the building has seen several efforts to bring it into current times.  Several years ago, however, the city made an ambitious commitment to bring the venerable old structure into the twenty-first century while maintaining the beauty and dignity of centuries gone by.  The success of their effort is nothing short of astonishing.  There is
Robert Hayne - Intendant, Governor
no way I can fairly and thoroughly review all of the art treasures, historical memorabilia and architectural wizardry that are represented in this magnificent location.  If you do get the opportunity to visit, however, you will be pleased to know that there is a docent-in-residence available most of the time during visiting hours who can help you understand the spectacular range of features to be
Charleston's Historic Leaders
found here.  As we have so often during this trip to the Holy City, we have again reached the "saturation point".  We could spend another three or four pages simply talking about the things we encountered as we journeyed from South Battery to Market Street and back again to the Battery.  But, we have tried to be considerate of how much time you have to spend with us.  You again performed "above and beyond" and we appreciate your faithfulness.  We hope we've convinced you that you really do need to come down to the Charleston peninsula for a visit to one of our favorite places. We'll close for now but we'll be back for a closing note or two and to explain our detour to Fort Moultrie on Sullivan's Island yesterday.  Thanks again for being valuable members of our team.  We look forward to traveling with you again.  See ya.

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