Virtually every street in Charleston contains hidden treasures that are almost guaranteed to awe even the most veteran tourist. Streets that lead to the battery - King, Meeting, East Bay and others - should all be visited, preferably on foot, pedi-cab or horse-drawn carriage. But my favorite is Church Street. In my
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view, for sheer beauty, history and variety there is no more beautiful street in the country. To get us somewhat oriented, the tip
of the Charleston peninsula has two streets that form the major boundaries. Murray Boulevard curves gracefully in from the west and right at the eastern end of Battery Park (White Point Gardens) it runs into East Battery Street which continues along the Battery waterfront until you reach the large city park known as Hazel Parker Playground. (That's a great place to walk by the way.) At that point East Battery becomes East Bay Street which we'll visit later. King Street, one of the main thoroughfares in Charleston runs perpendicular to Murray Boulevard and ends at the seawall. The other streets we've been talking about - Meeting St., Church St., East Bay - all parallel King St. The street that forms the northern border of Battery Park is South Battery Street and we will begin our stroll up Church Street from that point.
Passing through these homes is like walking through a jewel orchard as we continue up Church and make a little "zig-zag" at Water Street. As we continue on and pass Tradd Street we see
some of the homes we visited yesterday - and an art gallery that was once the studio of famed artist Elizabeth O'Neill Verner. (38 Tradd St.) The picture on the left is from the corner of Church and Broad Streets a little further up than our starting point. In the distance you can see the steeple of St. Phillips Episcopal Church which we'll visit in just a bit. First, though, we pass Broad and Chalmers Streets and at the corner of Queen and Church we encounter the French Hugenot Church. Built shortly after the arrival of members of the faith in 1687 the church was one of the earliest formed in Charleston and is presently one of the longest continual congregations in the country. Damaged by fire in 1796 the building was razed and rebuilt in 1800. The present building dates from 1844. Although services today are in English, the church continues to celebrate the coming of spring with a service in French each year. If you'll remember from our walk yesterday we talked about the re-naming of Dock Street to the present name, Queen Street, well, looking
across the street we catch a glimpse of the incredible Dock Street Theater. During the early
summer of each year, Charleston explodes with cultural events in the fabulous "Sploleto Festival." Founded by Pulitzer Prize winning composer Gian Carlo Menotti in 1977 the festival brings an absolutely stunning array of art, music and theater to the South Carolina low country. For the performances that can be accomodated there, the Dock Street provides an intimate, enchanting venue. Scheduled for May 25th through June 10th this year, the Spoleto Festival is an event you really should make an effort to attend. You won't be sorry!! Moving on up Church Street we approach a section of the road that has always fascinated me. Directly between the front of Saint Phillips
'
Episcopal Church and the churchyard on the other side, Church Street does this amazing little turn that seems to be intended to emphasize the grandeur of the majestic structure. (As if it needed it!!) Anyway, we've added a picture but unfortunately road construction was underway and the traffic cones prevent you from getting a good picture of the unique little "zig". St. Phillips, founded in 1680 and the oldest continuous congregation in Charleston, has always been a warm and welcoming church. It has regularly scheduled visiting opportunities and there is almost always someone from the parish there to offer historical background information. On Wednesdays the church is open for prayer and during those hours photographs are not permitted. Since we were there on Wednesday and wanted to take advantage of the time for prayer, out of respect
for others who were there we didn't take any pictures inside the church but maybe we can come back later and get some!! What we did get a chance to do, though, was to talk with one of the parishioners about the amazing painting of Saint Simeon, by Charles DuPre DeAntonio, shown above. DeAntonio actually "chose" St. Phillips' to receive his painting based on his respect for their theology. The setting for the picture is actually the steps of the church and the
light shown above St. Simeon is the actual light inside the narthax. The people who served as models for Jesus, Mary and Joseph are 'living Charlestonians'. Wow, what an honor. We had a delightful visit to St. Phillips and I really hope you'll take the time to visit if you're in the area. From there we ambled west toward Meeting Street which is simply chock full of good stuff to see. But - we were on a "mini-quest" so our destination was the "Circular Congretational Church at 150 Meeting Street. This church, now affiliated with the "Church of Christ" is one of the most fascinating in Charleston to me. Originally formed by English Congregationalists, Scots
Presbyterians and French Hugenots the church was fiercely independent and sought to break down theological barriers that separated people. Their beliefs were primarily focused on establishing a solid fellowship between people of all races, backgrounds, genders and ages and, even in the early years of the colony, included slaves in the congregation. It is a gorgeous structure and, although it was rebuilt (with bricks from the original structure) following a fire, the rectory and other buildings are original. This structure was incredible in its original design by Robert Mills -
designer of the Washington Monument (and a resident of Columbia!!!) and was the first "domed" structure of its kind in the nation. (Remember our visit to Salt Lake City and the Mormon Tabernacle a while back???) On our way over to Meeting Street we were also able to glimpse one of my favorite places on the entire planet - St. Michael's Episcopal
Church in whose churchyard a number of my ancestors reside. St. Michael's has an absolutely intriguing history and I won't even attempt to recap it here. Let it suffice to say that St. Michael's and St. Phillip's have traded names and locations over the years!!!! And, although I can't verify the lineage of either church, St. Michael's and Christ Church in Boston (The Old North Church) were both designed by (or at least inspired by) famed architect Christopher Wren. I have always heard that the churches were built from the same architectural plans and, having visited both they sure look alike to me.
(Although the pulpit and lectern in St. Michael's are unique and extraordinary.) And - since St. Michael's was built in 1680 and Christ Church in 1720 it's a little hard to verify the history. But - both have a
permanent and beloved place in the history of the United States, Massachusetts and South Carolina. Wow, I'm starting to feel downright holy!!!! You should be too - after all, you've been with us every step of the way. We've only touched on a tiny sampling of the churches, temples and synagogues with which Charleston is blessed. They each have their own unique history, background and traditions and when you talk to parishioners at any of them you can absolutely feel the sincerity with which they practice their faith. On our trip we also took
time to visit First Presbyterian (Scots), First Baptist and Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim Synagogue on Hasell Street but I would guess that you are about worn out from all this walking and visiting. I suppose the bottom line is that Charleston has about as many churches as you can find in any similar geographical space anywhere and they are all vibrant, thriving communities of faith. The people I have met at every one of them - church,
temple, mosque, synagogue - continue to lift my spirits and cause me to believe that mankind does, indeed, have a future. But - we've gotta work at it!!! I really hate that we could not have visited more of these fantastic places with you but at least we've given you a brief glimpse of what's in store for you when (not "if" mind you - "when") you come. When we come back we'll still be in downtown Charleston but we're going to take a look at some other kinds of structures. I want to show you some of the city buildings, the parks and the monuments that are so numerous in the Holy City. I think you'll be blown away by Charleston City Hall. While remaining an active, aggressive political center the structure manages to exhibit the absolute epitome' of "Charleston Style". I hope you'll join us as we visit Mayor Joe's office and the city council chambers. It's something you won't want to miss. See ya.
of the Charleston peninsula has two streets that form the major boundaries. Murray Boulevard curves gracefully in from the west and right at the eastern end of Battery Park (White Point Gardens) it runs into East Battery Street which continues along the Battery waterfront until you reach the large city park known as Hazel Parker Playground. (That's a great place to walk by the way.) At that point East Battery becomes East Bay Street which we'll visit later. King Street, one of the main thoroughfares in Charleston runs perpendicular to Murray Boulevard and ends at the seawall. The other streets we've been talking about - Meeting St., Church St., East Bay - all parallel King St. The street that forms the northern border of Battery Park is South Battery Street and we will begin our stroll up Church Street from that point. 
Passing through these homes is like walking through a jewel orchard as we continue up Church and make a little "zig-zag" at Water Street. As we continue on and pass Tradd Street we see 
some of the homes we visited yesterday - and an art gallery that was once the studio of famed artist Elizabeth O'Neill Verner. (38 Tradd St.) The picture on the left is from the corner of Church and Broad Streets a little further up than our starting point. In the distance you can see the steeple of St. Phillips Episcopal Church which we'll visit in just a bit. First, though, we pass Broad and Chalmers Streets and at the corner of Queen and Church we encounter the French Hugenot Church. Built shortly after the arrival of members of the faith in 1687 the church was one of the earliest formed in Charleston and is presently one of the longest continual congregations in the country. Damaged by fire in 1796 the building was razed and rebuilt in 1800. The present building dates from 1844. Although services today are in English, the church continues to celebrate the coming of spring with a service in French each year. If you'll remember from our walk yesterday we talked about the re-naming of Dock Street to the present name, Queen Street, well, looking 
across the street we catch a glimpse of the incredible Dock Street Theater. During the early 
summer of each year, Charleston explodes with cultural events in the fabulous "Sploleto Festival." Founded by Pulitzer Prize winning composer Gian Carlo Menotti in 1977 the festival brings an absolutely stunning array of art, music and theater to the South Carolina low country. For the performances that can be accomodated there, the Dock Street provides an intimate, enchanting venue. Scheduled for May 25th through June 10th this year, the Spoleto Festival is an event you really should make an effort to attend. You won't be sorry!! Moving on up Church Street we approach a section of the road that has always fascinated me. Directly between the front of Saint Phillips
' 
Episcopal Church and the churchyard on the other side, Church Street does this amazing little turn that seems to be intended to emphasize the grandeur of the majestic structure. (As if it needed it!!) Anyway, we've added a picture but unfortunately road construction was underway and the traffic cones prevent you from getting a good picture of the unique little "zig". St. Phillips, founded in 1680 and the oldest continuous congregation in Charleston, has always been a warm and welcoming church. It has regularly scheduled visiting opportunities and there is almost always someone from the parish there to offer historical background information. On Wednesdays the church is open for prayer and during those hours photographs are not permitted. Since we were there on Wednesday and wanted to take advantage of the time for prayer, out of respect
for others who were there we didn't take any pictures inside the church but maybe we can come back later and get some!! What we did get a chance to do, though, was to talk with one of the parishioners about the amazing painting of Saint Simeon, by Charles DuPre DeAntonio, shown above. DeAntonio actually "chose" St. Phillips' to receive his painting based on his respect for their theology. The setting for the picture is actually the steps of the church and the 
light shown above St. Simeon is the actual light inside the narthax. The people who served as models for Jesus, Mary and Joseph are 'living Charlestonians'. Wow, what an honor. We had a delightful visit to St. Phillips and I really hope you'll take the time to visit if you're in the area. From there we ambled west toward Meeting Street which is simply chock full of good stuff to see. But - we were on a "mini-quest" so our destination was the "Circular Congretational Church at 150 Meeting Street. This church, now affiliated with the "Church of Christ" is one of the most fascinating in Charleston to me. Originally formed by English Congregationalists, Scots
Presbyterians and French Hugenots the church was fiercely independent and sought to break down theological barriers that separated people. Their beliefs were primarily focused on establishing a solid fellowship between people of all races, backgrounds, genders and ages and, even in the early years of the colony, included slaves in the congregation. It is a gorgeous structure and, although it was rebuilt (with bricks from the original structure) following a fire, the rectory and other buildings are original. This structure was incredible in its original design by Robert Mills - 
designer of the Washington Monument (and a resident of Columbia!!!) and was the first "domed" structure of its kind in the nation. (Remember our visit to Salt Lake City and the Mormon Tabernacle a while back???) On our way over to Meeting Street we were also able to glimpse one of my favorite places on the entire planet - St. Michael's Episcopal 
Church in whose churchyard a number of my ancestors reside. St. Michael's has an absolutely intriguing history and I won't even attempt to recap it here. Let it suffice to say that St. Michael's and St. Phillip's have traded names and locations over the years!!!! And, although I can't verify the lineage of either church, St. Michael's and Christ Church in Boston (The Old North Church) were both designed by (or at least inspired by) famed architect Christopher Wren. I have always heard that the churches were built from the same architectural plans and, having visited both they sure look alike to me. 
(Although the pulpit and lectern in St. Michael's are unique and extraordinary.) And - since St. Michael's was built in 1680 and Christ Church in 1720 it's a little hard to verify the history. But - both have a 
permanent and beloved place in the history of the United States, Massachusetts and South Carolina. Wow, I'm starting to feel downright holy!!!! You should be too - after all, you've been with us every step of the way. We've only touched on a tiny sampling of the churches, temples and synagogues with which Charleston is blessed. They each have their own unique history, background and traditions and when you talk to parishioners at any of them you can absolutely feel the sincerity with which they practice their faith. On our trip we also took 
time to visit First Presbyterian (Scots), First Baptist and Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim Synagogue on Hasell Street but I would guess that you are about worn out from all this walking and visiting. I suppose the bottom line is that Charleston has about as many churches as you can find in any similar geographical space anywhere and they are all vibrant, thriving communities of faith. The people I have met at every one of them - church, 
temple, mosque, synagogue - continue to lift my spirits and cause me to believe that mankind does, indeed, have a future. But - we've gotta work at it!!! I really hate that we could not have visited more of these fantastic places with you but at least we've given you a brief glimpse of what's in store for you when (not "if" mind you - "when") you come. When we come back we'll still be in downtown Charleston but we're going to take a look at some other kinds of structures. I want to show you some of the city buildings, the parks and the monuments that are so numerous in the Holy City. I think you'll be blown away by Charleston City Hall. While remaining an active, aggressive political center the structure manages to exhibit the absolute epitome' of "Charleston Style". I hope you'll join us as we visit Mayor Joe's office and the city council chambers. It's something you won't want to miss. See ya. 
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