The Homes of Charleston

The first thing I need to say very emphatically - especially after looking at the photos we took while walking around - is that it is clearly impossible to capture the magnificence of Charleston in photographs or in words alone. A combination of the two helps but there is just no substitute for actually being there. But, even if your visit has to be vicarious, please, please take whatever opportunity you have to get to know this national treasure.  The beauty of the homes, the hidden gardens and the charming fountains are all amazing but you have to see some of the subtle, almost invisible details and read the history of these structures to gain an appreciation of the city and all it has seen.  Take the picture on the left for example.  This is a home on the western end of the battery and is not one of the older buildings.  At first glance it might even seem ordinary.  But take a closer look at the details in the windows and in the trim above the windows.  These artistic yet understated features are found everywhere.  In the most majestic structures facing Battery Park (often referred to as "Battery Row") and tucked away in tiny alleyways that lead to unbelievably beautiful plazas.  And, the ironwork that abounds in the neighborhoods is as much a part of the pride of the city as the homes themselves.  Some of the most artful works are the creation of local craftsman Phillip Simmons whose ironwork is recognized and treasured throughout the world.  The huge mansions that look out over the harbor represent an incredible range of architecture and while I'm not an expert on the styles, they are described as "Georgia, Federal, Adamesque, Greek Revival, Italianate and Victoria".  Further north - along the streets that run perpendicular to the Battery - the houses, while still remarkably varied, generally fall into two categories referred to as 'single' and 'double' houses.  Single houses are one room wide and are built 'sideways' to the street with deep, covered, multi-story porches or piazzas along one side.  The design allowed breezes from the prevailing winds to flow from one end of the house to the other while the porches served to shade the windows from the sun.  The 'double' houses are two rooms wide with their full length facing the street.  While some have lengthy porches, others have a more subdued entryway.  Both styles of homes nearly always have a beautiful garden area along the front (or side) of the house and the flowers, shrubs, hedges, trees, fountains and walkways are stunning.  Along parallel streets such as East Bay Street and Meeting Street colorful, stuccoed townhouses are joined together over lengthy stretches but each retains its individuality with its own pastel painting.  This area known as Rainbow Row is one of the most photographed and painted areas in the city.  Other, smaller clusters of townhouses represent some of the very early efforts at "urban renewal."  While the tornadoes, earthquakes and fires that have damaged or destroyed larges sections from time to time, Charlestonians themselves are committed to maintaining the beauty of the city and since the 1800s have periodically undertaken restoration projects.  In fact one of my favorite

Site of city's oldest recorded deed

streets, Queen Street" originally had the name "Dock Street" but was re-named when the area became popular as a site for converting existing buildings into town homes.  The beautiful pink building on the right is where one of my favorite uncles lived until shortly before his recent death.  While several of our folks still have property in the area this will likely be the last "downtown" residence in the family.  It is a lengthy structure with a

C. Pinkney - Founding Father

beautiful garden at the rear surrounding the windows of the dining room.  Watching over the renovation of buildings in the city is the "Charleston Historic Preservation Society", the highly influential

William Bull home - built 1720

organization without whose approval very little construction can be done.  The Society also ensures that the provenance of each building is properly documented and often places plaques explaining the history of both structures and residents.  The plaques seen here were placed by different organizations.  The one to the left an extraordinarily rare sight because the sign placed by the Historical Preservation Society is in disrepair.  It shows, by the way, the home of former Lt. Governor of the Colony, William Bull.  The property was granted to his father, a resident of the area near Beaufort known as Sheldon, in 1696.  (If you ever get a chance, visit the "Old Sheldon Church" cemetery where many of the original members of the family are buried.  It is amazing!!)  It was at this site that Governor Robert Hayne persuaded a group of hostile secessionists not to attack a Union ship.  His action postponed but, unfortunately, did not eliminate the threat of secession.  It is amazing to look at these plaques and realize that the people who lived here participated in some of the most significant events in the history of the U.S.  Charles Pinkney, signer of the Declaration of Independence and President of the Provisional Congress, Thomas Gadsen, son of Revolutionary War General Christopher Gadsen, General P. T.G. Bueauregard who led the capture of Fort Sumter, Dr. Vincent Le Seigneur who established a hospital for slaves on fashionable Broad Street right in the center of Charleston, and so many, many more.  The town breathes history!!!!  In fact, some of the current residents display the colors that have flown over the city at one time or another and demonstrate that the past is not always so distant as we might think.  (A bit of trivia for you!!  In the photo to the left there are four flags.  On the far left is the "Don't Tread On Me" flag designed by Christopher Gadsden. [First flag carried by U.S. Marines into battle.]  On the far right is the official flag of the Confederacy. The red flag with the palmetto tree is the "Spirit Flag" of the Citadel and the other one ... blue with "Liberty" on the bottom is not a South Carolina flag at all.  Although patterned after the 2nd regiment flag, the one shown is actually the ... "official flag of Moultrie County Illinois!!!!!!"  Oops ...)  Other front porch decorations are less political and much more colorful.  Whatever their nature, the decorations of these homes reflect the owners' pride in their residences but also their regard for those who visit them or their city.  Everywhere you turn there is something else that takes your breath away or strikes a resonant chord deep in your soul.  Clearly, those who built these beautiful places, those who ensure that they remain places of which the city can be proud and those who come here year after year to enjoy them share a profound love for our country, our state and our history.   I think I've made it pretty clear over the time you've been hanging out with us how much we love our native state and how strongly we believe that it is a treasure that belongs to all the people of our country.  There are things here that are almost unbelievable in their unique nature and things that you would never have imagined existed in little South Carolina.  We could continue looking at these beautiful structures for days and days but we've got a ton of other stuff to show you that I think you will find amazing.  In fact, there is so much that we will break it down into several different categories.  We will next visit some of the remarkable, historic and magnificent churches that led to the nickname "The Holy City".  While we're downtown we will come back and look at buildings that currently or formerly housed some of the most historic government and civic organizations in our country.  Before we end our visit we will pack up for a quick trip out to Fort Moultrie which actively protected Charleston and our country for over two hundred years.  I hope you will come and join us for these delightful visits.  You'll see some beautiful and moving stuff.  See ya.

The Battery of Charleston

The Battery - Looking East

As we have mentioned, Charleston sits at the tip of a peninsula, bordered on the east by the Cooper River and on the west by the Ashley.  To the southeast lies Charleston Harbor with Sullivan's Island  protecting the eastern side and

Fort Sumter - viewed from the Battery

little Morris Island and James Island protecting the west.  Right off the eastern tip of Morris Island is one of the area's most venerable (and most frequently painted) structures, the Morris Island Lighthouse.  A little further in, on the tip of James Island, the old site of Fort Johnson intently watches Fort Sumter off the northeast shore.  Built in 1704, Fort Johnson was the site of a number of significent events in the history of our country.  In our history classes, most of us studied the infamous "Stamp Acts" and remember that they caused tremendous resentment in the colonies.  In South Carolina the outcry was so great that Governor William Bull sent the stamps to Fort Johnson for protection and they remained there until the repeal of the acts by the British Parliament.  A hundred fifty or so years later the fort gained infamy when opening shot of the War Between The States was fired at Fort Sumter from its cannons.  The tip of the Charleston peninsula once wore a necklace of bleached oyster shells from

The Battery - Looking West

which it gained the name "White Point".  To maintain the integrity of the shoreline, a seawall was constructed that now rings the city and forms what is referred to as "The Battery."  The views of the harbor and surrounding islands are spectacular and a walk along the battery is a "must" during a visit to the city. Just inside the perimeter of the Battery is a beautiful park most often known as "Battery Park" but also known as "White Point Park" in recognition of those earlier days.  The park contains numerous monuments commemorating events and people from our past.  The center of the park now has a beautiful gazebo where musical entertainment is often provided during the summer months.  Originally, however, the site had a much more sinister use. In the early days pirates frequently menaced shipping along the coast so - to serve as a deterrent, many of those who were captured were hanged in the park and left for days to serve as a warning to anyone who might be contemplating going into the pirating business.  The memorials here cover an enormous range of history from a monument to the South Carolina Second Regiment, defenders of Fourt Moultrie prior to and
during the revolution, to a memorial to the submariners of the Confederate submarine the CSS Hunley. to the stark column erected in memory of the brave sailors of the USS Hobson (DMS 26) who lost their lives in a tragic collision at

USS Hobson Memorial

sea in April of 1952.  To me, one of the most wonderful features of the park is the beautiful grove of Live Oaks that dominate the landscape.  Those magnificent giants with their spreading arms seem to be welcoming us with a big hug.  While they are beautiful presently, I have the advantage (or disadvantage, depending on how you look at it...) of knowing what the children fifty or sixty years from now will see.  They will see trees that are twice as spectacular and whose arms will be reaching down to the ground for those kids to climb upon.  You see, those are the trees that welcomed me during my childhood.  Sadly, most of them were destroyed or severely damaged by the wrath of Hurricane Hugo so the ones that live there today are a mere shadow of what was - and what will be.  But - Charleston has withstood fires, floods, hurricanes, earthquakes and tornadoes.  Wars, riots, sieges and pestilence have visited her throughout the years but there is one thing you can bet on and I'll personally guarantee its a safe one.  The spirit of this awesome place will never, ever be broken.  We're going to head north now and take a look at some of the homes of Charleston.  All along the western side of the Battery and extending to Broad Street and beyond are some of the most incredibly beautiful residences in the country.  When we come back we'll take a look at some of them and will talk about the history that resides in the shaded gardens and cobbled streets.  Put on your walking shoes and come on back.  You're gonna love this!!  See ya.

A City To Love

Wow!! I mentioned before that every visit to Charleston was a new adventure ... well, the magic continues. After our post this morning we headed down to the Battery to take a deep breath, inhale the (very) unique fragrances of the city and immerse ourselves in decades of great memories. I know many of you have been here so I hope we can give you some new and different perspectives. But, for those who haven't, we'll share some of our favorite spots with you - but - you've GOTTA come on down.

So.. We left our hotel and headed east over the Ashley River Bridge. That's the set of bridges we showed you this morning - but - we didn't tell you something very interesting about them. They we're actually dedicated as a memorial to the Veterans of World War One.


We exited onto Lockwood Drive and followed it down to King Street and over to the Battery. There, we joined the throngs of tourists who had come down for the tours or who were taking advantage of Spring Break and began our visit at Battery Park.


As we walked through the place we lived for several years when I was in the service and where I traveled to on business for more than thirty years we both remarked that it would be very difficult to imagine a more beautiful place. I'll tell ya folks, Charleston was stunningly beautiful today - just in time for the annual "Gardens and Fountains" tours.









I was planning to make this a more comprehensive post but all that walking we did today has worn me out!! So, I think I'll close for now with a promise that I have an absolute ton of stuff to share - and I think you will really enjoy it. Rest up and get ready for a jam-packed trip when we get back. See Ya.

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Location:Charleston, S.C.

The Holy City

Ok folks, to ease back into posting after a bit of a layoff we decided to start off with a quick trip to one of our favorite places - Charleston. While her historical significance alone gives the city a unique status in our state it has special meaning for Linda and me since it was our home for several years. It is also a place I have visited frequently throughout my entire life. Still, we never tire of being here and for a place that prides itself on remaining unchanged, it offers something new each time we return. So ... We thought we would bring you along as we explore this beautiful location.
The title "Holy City" came about not as a term of veneration as would be applied to Jerusalem, Rome, Mecca or Tibet but because early visitors to the area could not help but notice the tremendous number of churches that flourished in South Carolina's first capitol. The skyline in those days of modest construction was absolutely dominated by a forest of steeples.


Even today the views of Charleston from a lofty vantage point show the steeples maintaining their prominence in the city's profile. This view is looking east over the Ashley River toward the tip of the peninsula. We'll take a closer look at some of the majestic structures in just a bit.

When native South Carolinians with a deep love for this venerable lady describe it they say... "Charleston is the point at which the Ashley and Cooper Rivers come together to form the Atlantic Ocean." (Nobody ever accused the residents of being short on ego!!) Actually, when the city was first settled (creating along with it what would become the "Palmetto State) it was located further up the Ashley River at a place called Albemarle Point. Charleston Landing, home of the Charleston Zoo is now located there and it is a great place to visit.


Looking across the Ashley, beyond the city skyline, you can see the majestic Cooper River Bridge soaring skyward in the distance. The coastline above and below Charleston is protected by a series of barrier island that have become an inseparable part of her "persona". The Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island, Mount Pleasant. James, Johns', Seabrook and Kiawah Islands and many others are inextricably woven into the history of the 'low country' and each has it's own charms, treasures and secrets you should consider exploring. Of course the entrance to Charleston is still guarded by battered but proud Fort Sumter and is watched over by the silent sentinel, The Morris Island Light. These photos were taken from our hotel but we're anxious to get on the road to explore - so, we'll close this post for now but we'll keep you updated as we go. See ya.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Charleston, S.C.

Heads Up!!! Here We Come Again!!!

Hi Gang....

Looks like our computer woes might be at an end.  I think the server has been restored and we will be able to publish posts without the excruciating delays and errors.  This is just a short note to let you know you can expect to see us back here very shortly.  I've got a neat, brief visit to another "Earth House" I wanted to start off with before we get back into "travel mode."  I'll get it out there ASAP.  Thanks for waiting for us.  See ya.

A Final "Thank You!!!" to Anna and Archer

For those of you who might have missed us over the last couple of days - sorry to keep you waiting!!!  We've had some computer woes and couldn't seem to get things updated properly.  But, even though the problems persist, at least we think we reached a point where we could proceed with our visit to Brookgreen Gardens.

Flying Wild Geese - Marshall Frederick

As we were talking about in our last post, the presentations of wildlife in the sculpture found here are extraordinarily varied.  From marble to bronze, from highly naturalistic to stylized, one cannot miss the deep affection the artists have for their wild subjects.  And we certainly seem attuned to that affection.  I was looking at the statue of the geese on the right and it seemed awfully familiar to me.  I have since found that it is one of the most popular sculptures around and that it is found at many corporate sites.  I can't remember where else I have seen it but when I do I'll let you know.  Another popular subject at Brookgreen is "man's best friend."  Shortly before our last visit they had

Bella and The Bug - Louise Peterson

an entire show dedicated to sculptures of dogs.  Most were still there when we visited and were amazing!!  Of course the other animals that           inhabit Brookgreen Gardens cover just about the entire spectrum of species.  From the gentlest to the most ferocious.  From everyday farm animals to fantastic mythical creatures.  As we saw in the last post, many of the statues combine humans and animals in humorous,

Pegasus - Edward Ratti

touching and sometimes frightening combinations.  One of the most remarkable is the exquisite "Pegasus" by Edward Ratti.  Mr. Ratti is one of the most enigmatic characters I have run across in studying the

Pegasus - detail

remarkable artists who have contributed their works to this incredible collection.  References to him are extremely limited and he is always listed as a "carver" rather than a sculptor.  But, interestingly, his work can be found in virtually every corner of our nations capitol - including the majestic 100 foot long tympanum pediment above the entrance to the National Archives and

Diana - Augustus Saint-Gaudens

the bas relief of "Wisdom" in the Senate of the United States.  (How we pray!!!)  And speaking of our capitol - one of the statues that touched me in a really unusual way was one of the many statues of "Diana" - this one by Augustus Saint-Gaudens.  I had to know more about the man who fashioned this evocative, yet serene, sculpture and what I found amazed me.  I won't try to recapture his biography here - but - Saint-Gaudens was commissioned by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1907 to design a new $20.00 gold coin to supplement the existing $10.00 gold coin - then popularly known as "The Eagle."  Since the new coin was twice the value

Diana - Paul Manship

of the Eagle it came to be known as "The Double Eagle."  Extraordinarily beautiful and highly detailed, the coin was resented by the people responsible for producing it and, consequently, few were minted during the 26 years it was issued.  It came to be known as the most beautiful coin ever minted in the U.S. and one of the most beautiful in the world.  (I like it because it bears such a strong resemblance to the U.S. "Half Dollar" coin I grew up with.)  Anyway - Saint-Gaudens was an amazing artist!!  And speaking of Diana - she is everywhere in Brookgreen Gardens and every single sculpture is a masterpiece in it's own way.  I found the statues by Mrs. Huntington to be particularly beautiful but the one above by Paul

Manship was remarkable for the extraordinary eyes!!!  As we talked about earlier, fountains abound at Brookgreen and each one is a wonderful spot to pause and reflect on the world around you.  But there is absolutely no better

The Sculptor

place for such reflection than the "Fountain of the Muses."  This thoughfully designed piece represents the four branches of the "fine arts" - Poetry, Architecture, Music and Painting.  The fifth figure standing isolated to the left is the Sculptor who, like the painter and the musician - is still reaching for his gift from the gods.  All five

Madonna and Child

are shown rushing homeward, anxious to implement their new ideas!!! To me, the incredible juxtaposition of whimsical - yet deeply meaningful - representations such as this with other sculptures that touch the deepest centers of feeling in the human spirit is one of the rarest and most creative features of this astonishing place.  I believe it is virtually impossible to come here and to thoughtfully consider what these amazing artists were trying to tell us and not be moved to the core of your being.  Clearly, Archer and Anna Huntington were rare and gifted people who used their talents and their fortune to the betterment of mankind.

The Visionaries - Anna Hyatt Huntingto

Their passion for art in all its forms, their commitment to the environment and protection of nature's creatures and their deep compassion for their fellow man all give us reason to respect and appreciate them.  But, for those of us who are children of South Carolina it is virtually impossible to assess our debt to this remarkable couple.  In traveling around Brookgreen Sculpture Gardens, the rice and indigo plantation areas, the zoological park, Atalaya and Huntington State Park I find myself profoundly grateful for their presence on this earth.  I look at this statue of Archer and Anna (depicted in this sculpture by Anna as they discuss the plans for Brookgreen Gardens) and I am filled with admiration and respect for these remarkable human beings.  We'll be back soon with a new itinerary and more travels - so, rest up!!  See ya.

The Nature of Art - Brookgreen Gardens

Remember a while back when we talked about "interconnectedness?"  Well, the more we have explored the works of various artists, the more we have come to realize how closely woven their works are with those of others; of our own lives - even when we have no idea about it.  As I mentioned earlier, I have looked at
some of these sculptures and thought how very new and modern they were - only to learn that they were
completed in the 1920s or early 1900s.    Take, for example, the exquisite, fresh, mood evoking statue to the right by Sally Farnham.  It was sculpted in

The End of the Day - Sally James Farnham

Mares of Diomedes - Gutzon Borglum

1919!!!!!!!  Or the powerful, action packed bronze of the horses on the left.  It looks like it was just finished but the amazing work - sculpted by the man who carved out one of our nations most amazing treasures - Mount Rushmore - was completed in 1904!!!  And, yet another work that seems to me to be 'brand new' is the beautiful depiction of

Boy and Squirrel - Walter Hancock

interaction between youthful humans and animals by Walter Hancock on the right which he finished in 1928!!.  Wow!  By the way - we mentioned Mr. Borglum earlier.  Did you know that he started the enormous Confederate Memorial sculpture on the side of Stone Mountain in Georgia?  Yep, but he died before finishing it.  The final work was done by - you guessed it - Walter Hancock!!  But you can never get too complacent in trying to guess about the origin of these incredible art works, one of my favorites was cast by a wonderful lady who happens to be almost exactly my age - Sandy Scott.  The

Eat More Beef - Sandy Scott

whimsical title of the statue below brings to mind a contemporary advertising line (remember 'Eat Mor Chiken') but Ms. Scott's big fellow was completed in 1973!!  In thinking about all these marvelous masters, the message they all seem to be sending in a direct and powerful way is that we need to be ever mindful of the beauty and majesty of the creatures and plants on our planet and that we all have

Riders of the Dawn - Adolph Weinman

a huge stewardship responsibility to carry out.  In fact, the title of a book about Sandy Scott sort of tells it all ... "Spirit of the Wild Things."  Oh yes, I forgot to mention something.  I spoke briefly about Ms. Sally Farnham above.  She lived a long, full life and died in April of 1943 - just about the time some of the folks I have talked a lot about in these posts (ahem!) were entering the world!!!  Oh, if any of you ladies want to find out about someone who should be one of your true heroes, read about Ms. Farnahm.  Her contributions to the expanded role of women in our country are incalculable!!!   Y'know - I just realized that I have done an injustice to the folks at Brookgreen Gardens.  I have gone on and on about the sculpture but I have totally failed to mention how much care is taken to place each work in a location, position and environment - and - proximity to other works - that give the viewer the greatest opportunity to experience the piece with as much sensory and emotional impact as you can get.  The folks responsible for these arrangements are amazing artists in their own right and we deeply appreciate their skill and caring.  It's really hard to put into words how viewing these masterpieces affects you.  There are those that fill you with energy and excitement - pushing you to 'do something - now!!!'  Or they might give you that warm tickle inside your chest that can only be brought on by frolicking young animals.  But still others have the power to cause you to

The End of the Trail - James Earl Fraser

glimpse an overwhelming feeling of desolation, fatigue and hopelessness.  One that does that to me is the classic by James Fraser that I imagine just about everyone in our country has seen at one time or another.  I think this statue was outside during the early years of Brookgreen Gardens but

African Elephant Robert H. Rockwell

now it is safely inside in a beautiful gallery.  Another one of the early residents of Brookgreen is this mighty pachyderm that is also one of those that
evokes images of wildest Africa - with trumpeting, dust throwing and stamping.  Amazing.  Another of the energetic sculptures that seemed to me to be very young - but surprised me - was the one to the left that is actually part of a group of horses.  It was completed by Mr. MacMonnies in ... 1898!!!! ... and placed in to Brookgreen in 1934!!!  Imagine - one of the earliest!!.  By the way - you might be interested to know that the sculptor used wild mustangs as the subject for this work - gently urging them into their poses by the use of ropes and springs.  (PETA wasn't around then, huh?)  All of the extraordinary works we have looked at today really makes us want to get back down to the beach so we can re-visit Brookgreen to find all of the pieces we missed.  But, before we can do that - we still have a lot of sculptures to look at here!!!  We'll be back with more from Murrell's Inlet shortly and we'll continue to try to better identify the sculptures.  I realize there are

Reaching - EvAngelos William Frudakis

several really unique ones that are not properly identified and I apologize for that.  What we plan to do is continue working on the photos and, where I can, I'll go back to older posts to correct or add information as needed.  If you have a real interest you might want to look back at them - or - write to us and we'll try to give you more information. See ya.