Monday, May 30, 2016

Kodiak - A Beautiful Sight For Our Eyes

We're here, gang!!!  Back in Kodiak for another long-awaited visit to our niece and her family.  And - as always - arriving on this magical island is an immediate swirl of sights, sounds, smells and sensations.  We have been incredibly fortunate in the past to have great weather for our trips and this one promised to be one of the best.  The temperatures were in the fifties with plenty of sunshine (about 15 to 20 hours of it per day) and the breezes were cool but gentle.  Driving in from the airport we passed many familiar sights - including the huge array of windmills keeping watch from atop Pillar Mountain high above Mill Bay.  Kodiak has a long history of maritime activity including military, commercial, personal travel and tourism.  But - let me get something straight before we get too far into the visit.  I keep saying "Kodiak" for both the city and the island and that is not fair.  Kodiak borough is only one of seven communities on the island and the folks in Akhiok, Old Harbor, Karluk, Larsen Bay, Port Lions and Ouzinkie (as well as those who live on Cape Chiniak) are equally proud of their towns and villages and with total justification.  We have had the good fortune to visit some of those places and to meet people from quite a few and we treasure those encounters.  When we were here last time we visited the local museum and discussed the Alutiq people and culture that has played such an important part in the history of Kodiak.  (Or - as the Alutiq folks would say it - Sun'aq.)  We won't try to go back over all the stuff we discussed then but, if you have time, please go back and take a look at the posts from that visit.  You can click on the following -. 2014 Kodiak Visit- if you'd like to look at it on a separate page.  It is important to remember that the island has been inhabited for at least 7,000 years and served as the capitol of Alaska under the Russians centuries ago.  In addition to the private citizens who make up the island's rich and diverse population, the U.S. Navy and Coast Guard have a major presence here.  The population of the island is around 7,000 and I can assure you - they are unique individuals.  It is always invigorating to look out over the city, the harbor and the bay and the sights from our niece's home are equally enthralling.  The view from their living room is a never-ending slide show of nature's most beautiful images.  Everywhere in their home you can see reminders of the things that make up both the culture of Kodiak and the character of its people.  The influence of the fishing industry, big game hunting and island customs are visible everywhere and we were captivated by the stories generated by everything we saw.   The entire family is involved in the life of the community and the guys are some of the most experienced outdoorsmen you will ever find.  The trophies of their hunting expeditions are too numerous to display adequately but the really important thing to keep in mind is that, for them, hunting and fishing are not just a sports but a way of supplementing their food supply in a big way.  I can tell you from experience that it is also the source of some extraordinary meals.  In our earlier post we included a photo of Matt preparing a truly spectacular treat - King Crab.  During the course of our visit the fish and game
Ginger
dishes we had the opportunity to enjoy were numerous and wonderful.  The island is known for salmon, halibut, cod and a vast array of others not to mention the many varieties of crab to be found there.    Upon arrival we were welcomed by our
old friend, Ginger, and were pleased to see that she was fairly relaxed in our presence. After spending a little time bringing ourselves up-to-date on the latest events in the lives of the Kodiak folks and our niece from Washington state and her family we tried to jump into action preparing for the events that would take place in connection with the approaching Kodiak High graduation.  There was lots to do but our niece was so well organized that there was a plan for virtually every step to be taken.  Amazing!!!  We also took the opportunity to do a bit of reminiscing about Linda's sister who had come to Kodiak to make her home here over forty years ago.  The adventures she had prior to her untimely death in 1986 would have made a tremendous novel and the legacy she left through her three incredible daughters is phenomenal.  The one thing we have found about the people who live in this part of the world is that they don't take life for granted and they tend to try to make the most out of every second they have.  Of course, as in every part of our country (and the world) there are those who would prefer to have someone else help with their subsistence but, for the most part, the folks we have met here are strong, individualistic, self-reliant and energized.  After all, when you make your living by facing the most severe conditions mother nature has to offer it does something for your character.   On the sea or in the air, the people of Alaska have learned to adapt and to succeed in a big way.  Interestingly, there are reminders of the indomitable spirit of both those of native descent and those who came to Alaska for special reasons.  Everywhere on the island you can see remnants of the military presence that was built up on Kodiak during World War II.  Looking at the facilities, gun emplacements, roadways and communications centers that were built during the 1940s you can readily visualize the sense of urgency that must have been felt by those sent here to serve as our front line of defense in the event of an attack or attempted invasion from the west.  Now a state park, Fort Abercrombie is chock full of historical features and one can feel the spirits of those young servicemen who came to this remote outpost so long ago.  Fortunately for us, the park is a place of peace and beauty for all to enjoy.  I know I probably sound like a representative of the Chamber of Commerce but we really do love this place and never tire of looking at (and sharing) the beauty we find here - personal and visual.  We also happened to be here right at the peak of the spring growing season and the flowers were in full bloom everywhere.  The salmon berries, blueberries, lingonberries and many, many others were rapidly maturing - promising to offer some really tasty treats to our real hosts - the Kodiak bears.  There is also a somewhat sinister side to the plant life on the Emerald Island.  On earlier visits here we learned about "Pushkie", a plant that you definitely want to know how to recognize.  Sometimes known as "Cow Parsnip", these plants often grow to over six feet tall with large white flowers and bristly stalks.  The reason it is important to be able to recognize the plant is that is is like poison ivy on steroids.  The itching and burning that an encounter with the plant generates can be excruciating.  Runners in some of the long-distance events in Alaska have been known to crash through them before recognizing what they were and suffering the consequences for a long time afterward.  But for the most part, our "plant encounters" were far more pleasant and enjoyable.  Visiting the homes of some of our new-found friends offered a look at island adaptability and appreciation for the skill we saw in horticulture of every kind.  The ingenuity we encountered in leisure activities, industrial development, engineering, crafts and art were inspiring and awesome.  Even in something like the design of a ship-board crane we saw amazing ingenuity.  The equipment used on the dock for loading and unloading cargo ships not only requires enormous sources of energy - it also generates its own.  When items are being lowered by the machinery shown on the right a huge wheel attached to a generator spins providing a substantial amount of electricity which is then stored in batteries for use in the 'lifting phase.'  Over the course of our trips around the country and especially to Alaska we have seen some of the most innovative technology you could imagine in virtually every aspect of business, recreation and daily life.  From the design and function of some of the large fishing vessels to the amazing factories that proscess their catch - from the phenomenal Alaska Marine Highway System to the artistry and pure talent of artists, craftsmen and subsistence fishermen in the remotest parts of our country we have seen the indomitable spirit of extraordinary people everywhere we have traveled.  And - it makes us feel great!!  Even though the times in which we live give us cause for concern quite often, meeting and getting to know the wonderful people who are striving to make the world a better place refreshes the soul.  We have a lot more to talk about and show from the 49th State so come on back!!!!  See ya.

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